How to Make a Bathroom Wall Cabinet
As part of the recent renovation of our shower room, I tore-Remove and replace the cheap plastic bathroom cabinet under the old washbasin, tank cabinet and above the sink.We changed the washbasin and the bottom.Sink cabinets with new vanity and cabinet unit purchased at almost half price in January sale;Ideal as they are perfect for the available space and match well with our new d…©Room.Another thing, however, is to find the right bathroom cabinet.Unlike the dressing table and unit which is very suitable, we found that none of the bathroom cabinets are very suitable for the available space.So I decided to make my own custom bathroom cabinet to make the most of the available space.
The unique advantage of making your own custom bathroom closet (also known as a medicine cabinet) is the ability to measure it so that it fits perfectly with the wall space you want to fill;You can implement it with any design feature you choose.
After modernizing our shower room and installing a new vanity and Cabinet, I wanted a bathroom closet to fill up the space above the sink.There are strict requirements in my heart, including style, size and function;In particular, maximize storage space by taking advantage of all available space.The peak of the design is to require two large mirrors to be installed on the cabinet door of the cabinet.
The area in question is the width between the shower unit and the Wall, 30 inch wide;Height from top of vanity to top of shower unit, 40 inch.I want to keep the first foot above the washbasin clean so there is enough gap between the electric toothbrush and accessory 10.5 inches high.I would also like an open tile rack about 6 inch high just under the bathroom cabinet as a semi-humid area.g.It is convenient to put shelves such as soap, flannel, glass (or plastic) tumbler.I want the door to be mirrored and the top of the cabinet can be used as an open shelf area for strange items that are not often needed.
It has been clear from the outset that it is highly unlikely to find such a cabinet of the right size and meet these requirements;Although I did have a quick look.So I decided to turn it into a DIY project and make my own custom bathroom cabinet.
The mirror is at the heart of the design, so before putting the pen on paper, developing accurate design and measurement methods, and writing down a shopping list of the materials I need to start with sourcing the mirror.In the study, I chose several acrylic mirrors, 30 cm x 50 cm (1 feet x 19 inch), which cost only £ 20 (about $33) per mirror );They will give me 24 inch width side by side, which is a good size for a pair of doors and the height is perfect for my requirements.
After purchasing the mirror, I was able to sort out my final detailed design, including the size and a detailed list of materials.When checking what scrap wood was in my workshop (Garden Cottage), I found that apart from the mirror, the only other material I need to complete this project is some extra door pine board and several pairs of hinges.
Below is a detailed step-by-step guide to making and installing custom bathroom cabinets, although you may not want to repeat them, this may provide you with useful enough information and guidance to design and make your own bathroom cabinets.
Making my own bathroom cabinet is much cheaper than buying one, especially since it is mainly made of waste wood from my workshop;Cottage at the end of the garden.Not only is it intended to maximize the storage space, but it also meets our other requirements for the new bathroom cabinet, including installation with our d bathroom©Cor for shower room renovation, large mirror on cabinet door and adjustable shelf inside cabinet to achieve the versatility of storage.Adjustable shelf future proof bathroom cabinet any changes to our storage requirements in the future, including the manufacturer changing the size of bottles such as shampoo, conditioner, etc.Ask to raise the height of one shelf or allow us to lower the height of it so that we can install another shelf on it for further storageg.Maximize storage.
Pine (or old pine flooring) 3/4 (18mm) 6 inch wide ).
I decided that the standard depth of the cabinet was 6 inch, so the width of all the wood and shelves I cut for the sides, top and bottom was 6 inch.I found some long pine woods in my cabin that had been salvaged from a dismantled bookshelf that someone had given me a few months ago.The shelf is about 8 inch wide, so I used my round saw (attached to the fixture) to cut all the pine boards needed for this DIY project to 6 inch wide.
After cutting the main wood, I adjusted the saw and fixture and cut a thin plywood 5 inch wide for the tile rack.I then put all the parts on my workbench so that I can start measuring, mark them with pencils and squares, ready to cut to the desired length.
As part of my design, I decided to hang the tile rack under the cabinet and make it 5 inch wide;Same depth as the tile rack with electric toothbrush and Shaver placed behind the vanity sink.Since this shelf is to be tiled, in order to maintain the same total thickness as other wood, I chose to use 1/4 plywood instead of 3/4 pine.Usually I will increase the strength with 1/2 plywood, however, since I will use 1/2 thick tiles instead of the usual thickness tiles, so I need to use thinner plywood to keep the overall depth closer to my 3/4 target;Although this Rack will be supported with slats at the back in order to increase support.
The first two pieces to be cut are the sides;I chose to cut precisely with a hand saw and cut by hand.I could have used my round saw outside the line marked with a pencil and then sanded it, but with such small pieces, it was just as fast to clip them and cut them by hand.Cut the first one instead of cutting it again.Measure and mark to cut the second block separately, it is safer and faster to use it as a template eg.Place it on the second piece of wood, use the fingertips as a measure, arrange them at one end and feel that both pieces of wood are arranged;Then mark the other end with a pencil for cutting.This avoids the risk of measuring the second piece of wood separately and making stupid mistakes.g.The cutting error is 23 inch instead of 32 inch.
Adding shapes to the design;Basically, the bathroom cabinet is a square box, except for the lower Open tile rack with a slightly smaller depth.This helps to add a little bit of curvature and shape to the design, not just all straight edges;I think this enhances the overall look of the cabinets.Because you are limited by what you can do with a clamp saw, don\'t be too ambitious about fancy curves;Just keep it simple.Mark and carefully cut the first piece with a clamp saw.
You can put both sides on top and cut both matching curves (contours) at the same time, except for the tendency of the clamp saw blade to bend when cutting thick wood, so you end up tilting the cut.Therefore, it is better to cut one piece first and use it as a template for marking and cutting the second piece;As shown in this photo.Align the two pieces of wood with a template on the top;Get fine lining by running your fingertips along the bottom edge so you can feel the two full liners;Fingertips are very sensitive and ideal for this precision check.
After cutting the curve, align the two side panels with the fingertips as the guide;Clip them together and double check if they are exactly the same visually as on your fingertips.Then use sandpaper to make the two profiles the same on both side panels.
To add more shape to these profile curves, select the right router bit and run the router carefully along the inner edge of each curve.This is a question that is worth thinking twice.g.If you move on without thinking about it, it\'s easy to route the wrong side of one or two side panels.If you are not sure, please erect the side panel and place a pencil mark on the inside of each panel near where you want to route;Like a visual reminder and check the right side of the route.
This photo shows the final result of the route.However, if you do not want to route, or do not have a router, you can use the course sandpaper to bypass the edges with an electric sander;The final result is also valid.
The next step is to cut the bottom opening (tile) shelf of the bathroom cabinet as well as the top and bottom.The bottom open shelf in this design is 1/4 plywood with a depth of 5 inch and the width of the cabinet is full width (as it will be fixed from below );The top and bottom of the bathroom cabinet are 3/4 (18mm) pine wood with a depth of 6 inch and the width of the cabinet is less than the thickness of the two side panels.
To do this accurately, first cut the plywood open shelf and place it on the top or bottom cabinet and line up in front of the two side panels;As shown in this photo.This will give you a point at the end of the plywood section, where you mark it with a pencil and give you a cut point.
Clip the top and bottom cabinet parts together with your fingertips (one on the other) at the end of the wood part you will be using to make sure they are consistent with each other.A square outside the line marked with a pencil and a square;Cut two pieces at the same time with a handsaw.
Now that all the parts of the basic box are cut, the rest is the shelf partition, shelf, door and two front side panels, which can go to both sides of the door.The size of the door (including height) is determined by the size of the two mirrors I bought for them, 30 cm x 50 cm (12 inch x 19 ).69 inch) each;This again determines the size of the shelf partition.
So I then cut the door, then put the cabinet dry and assembled, put one of the doors on the top in order to make a precise measurement of the partition and cut it into size.Since the door will be mirrored, I don\'t want any handles, instead the bottom of the door will overlap the bottom of the cabinet under half an inch to form a lip that naturally pulls the handle.
Since I want the adjustable shelf, after cutting the shelf partition, the next step is to mark a grid on the shelf partition to determine where to drill holes for the shelf hook.Holes about half an inch on both sides, every other timeg.Per inch, so that the lowest shelf position can be 4 inch, and the highest shelf position can be set at any height above 6 inch, which is not very accessible (especially for smaller people ).
In order to drill out the correct size hole, I need to know the size of the rack support nail;To do this, I used the hole size measuring plate installed inside the drill bit and drive bit accessory box as one of the very useful accessories.As shown in the figure, the meter shows that the correct diameter of these pins is 4.5 mm.
To keep tight fit, I drilled a slightly smaller hole at 4.2 mm;Although if I build cabinets for others, I will drill holes in the correct size 4.5mm, so that they do not have to force DingTalk to enter.I suggest that you do an experiment on a piece of wood and decide what you are comfortable;Although don\'t make the hole too big, it will be too easy for the pin to fall out.
Since there will be shelf support nails on both sides of the central shelf partition, I put a sacrificial wood below and drilled through the partition.
After drilling through the right side of the central partition, I clamp it to each side plate in turn and use it as a template to mark the drilling position in the side plate e.g.By drilling each hole into the side plate in turn to the correct depth.Normally you drill to the depth of the nail, allowing for extra millimeters or two gaps.However, since one side of the bathroom cabinet will be against the wall, and the other side next to the shower equipment will be against the wall, whether I drill all the way or not, because the side of the bathroom cabinet is invisible, it doesn\'t matter.
A key function of the bathroom cabinet in this article is the adjustable shelf.This is part of my short film as how I made it in the previous paragraph.DIY project demonstrates a method I use to make holes that are used with rack holders for adjustable shelves.
Not all bathroom cabinets have adjustable shelves.I\'m glad I designed my shelves with them because I set all four adjustable shelves to standard height and gave me six 6 inch shelves, my wife took out a shelf in half an hour so she could have two higher shelves to store higher itemsg.Bottles of shampoo, etc.
When drilling in the cabinet, I also took the opportunity to bypass the side of the top of the cabinet and give a circular outline to the open shelf on the top.I just do these corners by simply using an electric sander and by the eyes.Although if you haven\'t done this before, you may want to start by marking a curve, polish the pencil mark to the curve, and use swing motion when you move the Sander back and forth around the corner.It\'s a simple job, just a minute or two.
Next, I turn my attention to the open shelf at the bottom and once the cabinet is mounted on the wall of the shower room it is tiled.My goal is that the depth of this shelf is 5 inch and the depth is 3/4 (18mm) to match the thickness of the rest of the wood.I would also like the shelf to be lined with wood instead of seeing the edge of the tile.The thickness of the tiles I used (matching the tiles I used when renovating the shower room) is 10mm, less than half an inch, considering that the tile adhesive 1/4 a few millimeters of plywood is the best option, although (to increase strength) it needs to be supported with a rear butt mounted on the back wall.
I chose to use thinner plywood with only 3mm (1/8 ).It is clear that this thin plywood is very fragile and lacks strength.Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention to fixing it on the side, apply a large amount of wood glue along its length, and maintain the clamping state;When the tile adhesive and grouting increase the required additional strength and rigidity, keep it in place until the tile is tiled.If you are not confident about it, you can easily use 1/4 plywood.
To reach the depth of the shelf 5 inch, I previously cut a notch at the bottom of the side panel to make the thickness of the front edge of this shelf reach;As the tiles are later cut to fit the space, grouting is carried out in a few millimeters around the edges.Once the edges are firmly glued together and fixed in place, the glue begins, and it\'s just a simple case to run sandpaper along the edges to smooth and bypass them.
When the cabinets are almost finished, it is time to make the shelves and install the central shelf partition in place.There are about 18 inch racks to play with, and if they are set at an equal distance, two adjustable racks on both sides can choose a 6 inch high rack.To get the correct length of each shelf, I simply put the shelf partition on one side of the box, measure the distance from there to the other, and divide it by two;Then cut the four pine trees to that distance, less than a few millimeters.g.Because the shelves are adjustable, you don\'t want them to be very tightly installed.
Then place each shelf in the box on both sides, two on the top and two on the bottom, and place the shelf partition in the middle (as shown ), it gives me the exact potion to glue and tighten the central shelf partition.
To securely secure the whole unit to the wall of the shower room, I installed the rear bracket on the top and bottom and pre-drilled it.At the same time, the support decoration is installed under the bottom open shelf.To add beauty, each piece can be done with decorative edges using the router.Although in my case, because I cut the size of scrap wood from an old book to make this cabinet, the original depth of the shelf is 8 inch, I use the remaining 2 inch as the rear bracket for the replacement of the bottom open shelf.These strips have been formed with decorative edges;This is an ideal purpose.
In order to complete the woodworking part of this project, it is time to cut the front side plate into the size of the door, allowing a few millimeters of clearance on both sides of the clearance door;Dry shop with Test cooperation;Make some minor adjustments as needed.The front side plate is made of waste wood;The only wood I want to buy is a pine board with two doors.
The installation of the hinges is a bit cumbersome, but to ensure the best results, I found it prudent to initially install only one screw on each hinge to test the installation.Then, if necessary, remove the hinge for any final adjustment before using another screw hole for a second installation;Everything is fine and the hinges are installed correctly.
After doing all the carpentry work, it\'s time to paint the bathroom cabinet before installing it on the wall.Cabinets can be painted, dyed or painted to suit d.©Cole.I chose to apply two layers of varnish with oak effect yacht varnish to match the gold trim around the shower unit.The varnish is wear-resistant, waterproof, and dry fast, allowing you to re-apply within an hour.Since the paint time was not long, I was soon ready to install two mirrors onto the cabinet door and install the bathroom cabinet on the bathroom wall, right above our new vanity and unit.
The acrylic mirror we bought has five sticky strips on the back that can fit the mirror easily and quickly onto the right surface.The tape is highly bonded and very effective, but to increase the elasticity, I also used the mirror fixing bracket that I rescued from the 1950 s vanity mirror (as shown ).
In the planning and design stage of my DIY project, make a customized product for measuring bathroom cabinets, one of the key features that determine the final design and precise measurement of the cabinet and its doors is the size of the mirror available on the bathroom cabinet door.;Of course, there is the cost of mirrors.
When doing research and resource allocation on mirrors, I find that most of the potentially suitable mirrors are either too large or too small, and are usually quite expensive.Then, I stumbled across the acrylic mirror on Amazon, which has a variety of useful sizes at a reasonable price;As thick as ordinary glass mirrors, 3mm.
In further studying this type of mirror, I noticed the pros and cons and paid special attention to the customer\'s comments, and I came to the conclusion that acrylic mirror is very ideal for my project;This is just an example of finding the most appropriate size.
In my research, I found that the acrylic mirror is light in weight and generally --The price is different from the traditional mirror, the mirror is flexible, so it will not break if they are fixed on the wooden door;as wood does.The only downside is that since these acrylic mirrors are very flexible, they distort the image unless they are completely flat mounted on a flat surface;Available in the bathroom, in the shower, even in the dressing table or on the wall of the bedroom, which is a minor issue I can put up.Although in more common areas such as the living room or dining room, they may not be suitable unless mounted on something very flat, such as medium-fiber boards or cardboard that are not easily bent.
The back of these acrylic mirrors usually comes with highly bonded fixing strips, which will remain fast on the most suitable surface for smaller mirrors;Although for larger mirrors, additional fixing methods may need to be considered.
My conclusion and suggestion is that acrylic mirrors are ideal alternatives to traditional mirror glass, although they need to be very careful when installing them to ensure that the reflected images are not distortedg.Frame and install it on a material that is not easy to bend, such as a medium fiber board or cardboard.Although a place like a bathroom or shower room, installing this mirror on a pine board is a little bit distorted easily, you will be happy if the reflected image is not perfect, which is not very important.
Once I am very happy with this product, I use it and will definitely use it again in any future DIY projects, including the use of mirrors.
After installing the mirror, it is just a case of screwing the cabinet to the wall, using four pre-drilled holes mounted on the two fixed brackets at the top and bottom of the bathroom cabinet.When drilling through the tile, use the drill bit setting first, and change the setting to hammer once drilling through the tile.Before drilling, gently rate the tile to prevent the drill bit from slipping on the tile.Drill a pilot hole first and then a drill bit large enough for the entire wall plug to fit in.Then use a smaller drill bit behind the tile to install the main body of the wall plug, not the head;In doing so, you should be able to plug the wall behind the tile to reduce the risk of wall brick breaking when you tighten the screws.
The use of the 5 inch wall frame behind the wash basin is twice.First of all, it provides a useful place to place bathroom appliances and other items such as toothpaste, flannel and soap.Secondly, more importantly, by installing the vanity sink and Unit 5 inch from the back wall, it provides space for the pipe behind the sink unitg.By installing hot water and cold water pipes and waste water pipes behind the cabinet of the vanity sink instead of inside, the storage space of the cabinet is maximized.Therefore, the tile shelf hanging under the bathroom cabinet is consistent with the tile shelf behind the washbasin, with the same width, which is designed for beautiful features.